Tub to Shower Conversion

In many Suncoast homes, the hall or primary bathroom still has a five-foot tub-and-shower combo that came with the house. It works, but most people only ever shower in it, and stepping over a tub wall gets harder every year. A tub to shower conversion removes the tub entirely and builds a proper shower in its place, usually with a low curb or threshold, a niche or two, and glass instead of a curtain.

It sounds like a simple swap, and from the outside it looks like one. But a tub and a shower are built differently, and the changes underneath are what make a conversion last. This page explains exactly what we change and why. For the bigger-picture question of whether to convert at all, see our guide article on whether to replace your tub or convert to a shower.

Signs It's Time to Convert Your Tub

• You shower every day and haven't filled the tub in years.
• Stepping over the tub wall takes a hand on the wall or the towel bar.
• The surround is cracked, stained or soft behind the tile.
• The curtain and tub deck are the hardest things in the room to keep clean.

What Changes When a Tub Becomes a Shower

The drain: size and location

A tub drains through an overflow assembly at one end, typically on a smaller drain line than a shower floor calls for. A shower drain sits in the floor itself, usually at the center or along one wall, and is typically larger to handle water coming off a full floor surface. Check local code for the exact requirements in your jurisdiction.

Florida homes are commonly built on concrete slabs. That means relocating or upsizing the drain involves cutting the slab, trenching to the existing line, making the connection, and patching the concrete before the shower floor is built. It's the step that turns a tub alcove into a real shower. Our guide on bathroom plumbing on a slab explains the process.

The valve and showerhead height

Tub-shower valves are usually set low enough to reach from outside the tub, with a tub spout below. In a dedicated shower, you'll typically want the controls at a comfortable standing height, and you may want them near the entry so you can turn the water on without stepping into a cold spray. The tub spout goes away, and many people add a handheld on a slide bar. While the wall is open, it's the right time to replace an older valve with a modern pressure-balancing or thermostatic one.

The floor: a pan instead of a tub

Where the tub sat, we build a shower floor sloped toward the new drain, typically about 1/4 inch per foot. That might be a traditional mortar bed, a foam tray system or a prefabricated pan, depending on the design. The floor is the part of the shower most likely to fail if it's built carelessly, so it gets the most attention.

Waterproofing the whole enclosure

Tub surrounds were often built with tile over drywall or greenboard, relying on the tub itself to catch the water. A shower has no such backup. Every wall surface, the floor, the curb and any niche must be part of one continuous waterproofing system on cement board or foam board. Details are on our shower pans and waterproofing page.

The curb or threshold

The tub's front wall disappears, so something has to hold water in. Options range from a standard tiled curb to a low-profile threshold, or even a curbless entry if the slab can be recessed. A lower entry is a major reason people convert, so we'll talk through how low you can go with your layout.

The walls you never saw

When the tub comes out, you'll see the wall and floor behind it for the first time in decades. In older homes, that's where rotted bottom plates, old leaks around the tub drain or termite damage tend to show up. We show you anything we find and agree on repairs before moving on. That's one reason estimates can change after demolition.

Before and After: What You Gain

How a Conversion Runs

1. Consultation and design: curb type, valve location, niches, tile and glass.
2. Demolition: remove the tub, surround and wall board down to framing.
3. Plumbing: cut the slab if needed, relocate or upsize the drain, set the new valve and heads.
4. Framing and blocking for niches, a bench, grab bars and glass.
5. Shower floor, backer board and continuous waterproofing.
6. Tile, trim, sealant at movement joints, and fixture trim.
7. Glass measured after tile, then installed.
8. Final walkthrough, with the water running so you can see it drain.

Step 7 has a wait built in: custom glass can't be measured until the tile is finished, as our shower doors page explains.

Design Choices for a Converted Shower

The space a tub leaves behind is usually about five feet long and 30 or so inches deep, which turns into a comfortable shower. A few ideas that work well in that footprint:

• A fixed glass panel covering about half the opening, with no door, if the head is placed at the far end.
• A niche on the back wall sized to tall bottles, plus a foot ledge for shaving.
• A handheld on a slide bar that doubles as a rinse wand for cleaning.
• Floor tile in a smaller format or mosaic for grip; see our bathroom tile page for wall tile choices.

For more on entry styles and glass, our walk-in showers page goes deeper. If you'd prefer to keep a tub but want a better one, our bathtub replacement page covers that path.

Should You Keep One Tub in the House?

Before converting, think about who else will use the house. Families with small children usually want a tub somewhere for bath time, and some buyers look for at least one when a home goes on the market. If a second bathroom keeps its tub, converting the other is usually an easy call. If this is the last tub in the house, weigh how long you plan to stay. Our guide on why tub-to-shower conversions are popular covers the bigger picture, and a conversion is also the easiest time to add grab bars on solid blocking and a seat.

Is Your Tub Alcove Ready for a Conversion?

Run through these before you plan:

• Floor type. A slab means the drain work is done in concrete; a raised or upstairs floor means checking joists and subfloor.
• Drain location. How far the new shower drain sits from the existing line affects how much trenching is needed.
• Valve wall access. A closet or hallway behind the valve wall can make plumbing easier and avoid cutting more tile than necessary.
• Condo approval. Condo conversions usually need association sign-off first; see our guide on remodeling a condo bathroom.
• Who's using it. A low curb or curbless entry changes the floor plan, so decide on it at the start.

What Affects the Cost

• Drain work. Distance to the existing line and slab cutting drive much of the plumbing cost.
• Entry style. A standard curb is simplest; a curbless entry means recessing the slab.
• Valve and fixtures. A new pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve, handheld and rain head add parts and labor.
• Tile and features. Niches, benches, accent bands and tile size all change the labor.
• Glass. A fixed panel costs less than a hinged door or a full enclosure.
• Hidden damage. Rot or termite damage behind the old tub must be repaired first.

Our guide on bathroom remodel costs explains how these factors combine.

Doing the drain, valve and waterproofing properly is what makes a conversion last. When you're ready, we'll come out, look at your tub, and give you a free estimate for converting it.