Bathtub Replacement

Not everyone wants to give up their tub. If you have young kids, if a long soak is how you unwind, or if the bathroom simply needs one, the answer to a worn-out tub is a better tub. Bathtub replacement at Today's Home Services covers the whole job: getting the old tub out (which is sometimes the hardest part), fixing whatever has been hiding underneath, setting the new tub level and solid, and rebuilding the surround so it stays watertight.

If you've already decided to remove the tub and put in a shower, our tub-to-shower conversion page is the better fit. Still deciding? The guide article replace the tub or convert to a shower? lays out the trade-offs.

Signs It's Time for a New Tub

• The finish is chipped through to the base, or rust is showing.
• The tub flexes or creaks when you step in.
• Caulk and grout along the tub keep failing, or there's staining on the floor or ceiling below.
• It's too shallow to soak in, or too high to step over comfortably.
• The color dates the whole room and can't be cleaned or painted away.

Replace, Refinish or Cover?

Refinishing or covering can make sense when the tub and walls are sound and you just want a fresh surface. If there's soft framing, a leaking drain, loose tile or a tub that's simply the wrong shape for you, a full replacement is the only option that deals with the cause.

Tub Styles We Install

Tub materials vary, too: acrylic, enameled steel, cast iron and solid-surface or composite options each feel and wear differently. Our guide to types of bathtubs compares them so you can choose with confidence.

Getting the Old Tub Out

This is where tub replacement differs most from other bathroom jobs. Many older Florida homes have cast iron or steel tubs that were set in place before the drywall and tile went up. They often won't fit through the bathroom door, and cast iron is very heavy.

• Cast iron tubs are typically broken into pieces in place. We protect the floor, the vanity and the doorway, contain the debris, and carry it out by hand.
• Steel tubs are lighter and can usually be cut or removed in one piece once the surround is open.
• Acrylic and fiberglass tubs come out more easily, but they're often attached to old adhesive or a mortar base that has to be cleaned up.

Removing an alcove tub means opening the wall around it, because the tub's flange sits behind the backer board and tile. That's why tub replacement and surround replacement nearly always go together.

What We Find Under Old Tubs

Once the tub is out, we can see the floor and the bottom of the walls for the first time in years. Common discoveries in older Suncoast homes include:

• Rotted bottom plates and studs from years of slow leaks at the tub-to-tile joint
• A corroded drain and overflow assembly
• Old mortar, debris or gaps under the tub where it was never properly supported
• In raised-floor or upstairs bathrooms, soft subfloor around the drain

We'll show you what we find, explain the repair and agree on any changes before going further. It's common enough that our guide explains why estimates can change after demolition.

Setting the New Tub Right

A tub that rocks, flexes or creaks will eventually crack its finish or break the seal at the wall. We:

1. Check that the floor is level and make corrections where needed.
2. Support the tub as its manufacturer specifies, often on a mortar or foam bed, so the bottom is fully supported when filled.
3. Install a new drain and overflow, and a new valve and spout when the wall is open.
4. Fasten the flange to the studs per the manufacturer's directions.
5. Test for leaks before anything is closed up.

For a drop-in tub, we frame the deck to the tub's dimensions, add access for the plumbing where practical, and finish the deck with tile or stone. For freestanding tubs, the drain usually has to move to suit the new tub, and the filler may be wall- or floor-mounted, which in a slab home means planning the plumbing route before the floor is finished.

Rebuilding the Tub Surround

The surround is where most old tub-showers fail, and it's where a replacement earns its keep. Above the new tub, we install cement board or foam board rather than drywall, apply a waterproofing membrane that laps over the tub flange, and then tile. A few details make a big difference:

• The bottom row of tile stops just above the tub deck, with a flexible sealant joint instead of grout, because the tub moves slightly when it fills.
• A recessed niche can replace the corner caddy; our walk-in shower page explains how we build shower niches.
• Blocking goes in for a grab bar, which helps getting in and out of a tub even if you don't need it today.

Our bathroom tile page goes deeper into surround layouts, trim pieces and accent bands. If you'd like glass instead of a curtain, a sliding door or a fixed splash panel can be added once the tile is done; see our glass shower doors page.

A Few Practical Considerations

• Weight. A large soaking tub filled with water and a person is heavy. On a slab, that's rarely an issue; on an upper floor, we look at the framing.
• Hot water. A deep tub needs enough hot water to fill it. If your water heater is small, you may run out partway through.
• Step-in height. Taller sides mean a deeper soak but a higher step. Think about everyone who will use the tub.
• Hard water. Many Gulf Coast homes have hard water that leaves scale on tub finishes and fixtures. A water purification system makes cleanup easier.

Choosing a Tub You'll Actually Use

Before picking a model, sit in a few if you can. Notice where your back rests, whether your feet reach the far end, and how easy it's to stand up again. A tub with a sloped backrest and the drain at the opposite end is far more comfortable for soaking than one with straight walls. If the tub will double as the household shower, a flatter, wider bottom gives you steadier footing, and a slip-resistant surface is worth asking about. Finally, think about cleaning: freestanding tubs need space behind them for a mop or cloth, and drop-in decks collect water at the edges unless they're sloped slightly toward the tub.

Part of a Bigger Plan?

Tub replacements often happen alongside new floors, a vanity or a full bathroom remodel. If you're planning a primary suite with a separate tub and shower, our master bathroom remodeling page covers that kind of project.

What Affects the Cost

• Removal. Breaking up and carrying out a cast iron tub takes more labor than pulling an acrylic one.
• Tub type and material. Alcove, drop-in, freestanding and soaking tubs in acrylic, steel, cast iron or composite vary widely.
• Drain and valve changes. A freestanding tub or a new tub location means moving the drain, which on a slab means cutting concrete.
• Surround. Tile choice, a niche, an accent band and glass all add to the surround.
• Hidden damage. Rotted plates, studs or subfloor under an old tub must be repaired first.

Our guide on bathroom remodel costs shows how a tub replacement fits a larger budget.

Tell us what you'd like your next bath to feel like, and we'll price the replacement and surround together in a free estimate.